Understanding Hair Types: A Comprehensive Guide

Comprendre les Types de Cheveux : Un Guide Complet

By Luc Vincent

In this article, we will explore together the different types of hair. Hair has three qualities: Texture, Porosity, and Elasticity. Understanding these qualities is crucial for proper hair care and styling.

The Basics of Hair

Hair is a flexible, resistant, horny filament. Like any hair, it is an epidermal formation implanted more or less obliquely in the skin. From conception, the color and nature of the hair are fixed by the laws of genetics: it is already decided whether we will be blonde, black, albino or brunette, or whether we will have curly or straight hair.

The primary function of hair is to protect the skull against heat, cold, sun, and injuries. Did you know that bald people injure their heads more often than those with hair? This is precisely because hair acts like a cat's whiskers!

There are approximately 100,000 hairs in a black or red head of hair, 150,000 in a blonde head, and 110,000 in a brown head. It's normal to lose between 10 and 80 hairs per day, and the average hair growth is about 1.2 cm per month.

Hair is implanted in a circular pattern, which explains why it's easier to style your hair on one side than the other. Since hair is a dead keratinized cell, you can't cure damaged hair, but you can temporarily repair it while waiting for new growth to arrive.

Repair is most often done with protein or oil-based products, but none of these products can permanently repair hair whose cuticles are damaged. Regular treatments must then be used, as damaged cuticles close poorly and don't retain treating products.

It's only after a few shampoos that the repairing product is released, hence the importance of repeating the operation. It's also thanks to healthy cuticles that dyes and other products can adhere to the hair's keratin.

Indeed, healthy cuticles automatically close after being forcibly opened by chemical dyes. However, when they are damaged, they become incapable of closing, making them unable to retain repairing products for long, hence the faded colors and dull colorations observed in such cases.

Understanding Hair Types

1. Texture

To the touch, hair can be soft, rough, or waxy.

  • Soft hair is easy to style and generally healthy.

  • Naturally rough hair will often wave or curl, has a lot of body, and is easy to give volume to. If its rough texture is the result of chemical product abuse, the hair will become "electrostatic" when styled.

  • Waxy hair (like in Asians) has a glacé finish regardless of its thickness, as the cuticles are flat; it is generally very shiny, but because the cuticles are very closed (flat), it is difficult to give it volume, maintain its styling, and even subject it to a perm.

2. Porosity

If your hair is easy to cut with scissors, in other words, if no resistance is felt, it's of the porous type. If you don't want to risk taking scissors to do this test, wet your hair. If it absorbs water very quickly, you'll know it's porous.

The main causes of hair porosity are abuse of bleaching and perms, poor color applications, and health problems.

3. Elasticity

Elasticity is the hair's ability to stretch. It can stretch without breaking and return to its initial length.

To do the test, take one of your hairs between your two hands and stretch it slightly. Hair with low elasticity will break at the slightest tension.

Also, do a slight overview of your scalp. It should have good mobility, meaning it shouldn't seem stuck to your skull. A scalp that doesn't move, or that has very reduced mobility, accumulates waste, which results in poor blood drainage that can hinder normal hair growth.

The scalp should have a slightly pinkish color due to good blood circulation. A whitish color indicates poor circulation, and a marked redness could reveal irritation or hypersensitivity.

A scalp should never be too oily or too dry. Even if it feels rough to the touch, it should be free of dry or oily dandruff, and after washing the hair, it should not emit odors.

Although sebum is associated with oily hair, it plays an important role in hair health. This thin layer of lipid that covers the skin functions to protect the scalp from dryness, and its high acidity prevents the proliferation of bacteria.

Sebum also functions to waterproof the skin, thus blocking chemical substances contained in hair products. Additionally, it moisturizes the hair and gives it more flexibility. Hypersecretion of serum is normal during puberty. This production will normalize in adulthood and decrease considerably during old age.

External Factors Affecting Hair

The external factors that influence sebaceous secretion are:

  1. High temperature with humid ambient air

  2. Ultraviolet rays (excessive irradiation having the effect of decreasing sebum production)

  3. Repeated shampooing with intense scalp friction

  4. A diet rich in sugar

It's worth noting that the consumption of vitamins A and B slows down sebaceous secretion.

Conclusion

Understanding your hair type is crucial for maintaining healthy, beautiful hair. By recognizing your hair's texture, porosity, and elasticity, you can choose the right products and treatments that will work best for you. Remember, external factors like diet, environment, and hair care practices can all influence your hair's health and appearance. Armed with this knowledge, you can make informed decisions about your hair care routine and achieve the best results for your unique hair type.


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