By Luc Vincent
Before you consider bleaching your hair, it's crucial to understand that this process subjects your hair to one of the most significant stresses it can endure. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about hair bleaching, from preparation to aftercare.
Understanding Hair Bleaching
When considering a color change, it's essential to analyze your situation first. For a simple change in tone or to lighten your color by one or two shades, opt for a hair color remover (commonly called a "stripper") instead. This product will simply remove the old coloring from your hair without changing its pigmentation, resulting in a much less aggressive treatment for your hair.
Natural vs. Artificial Pigmentation
You must distinguish between your hair's natural pigmentation and its current color. All hair contains a base pigment, hidden just under the main color. Understanding this is crucial because when the cortex of our hair is colored or bleached, the natural pigment changes according to the degree of coloration applied.
Knowing the degrees of pigmentation will help you avoid excessive lightening when proceeding with bleaching or hair stripping. For instance, you won't need to lighten your hair to pale or very pale yellow if you simply want a level 7 coloration.
Remember, bleaching is the greatest stress your hair can undergo. So, avoid over-bleaching at all costs.
Preparing for Bleaching
Mordanting (for Virgin or Hard-to-Color Hair)
Is your hair graying and you're having difficulty coloring your temples? Try a coloration with a longer processing time first. Avoid quick-effect colorations; they're very effective, but certain types of white hair are particularly difficult to cover, especially at the temples.
If the problem persists after changing coloration, another solution is available: mordanting. This process is used on virgin (never colored) or white hair. On virgin hair, the cuticles (scales) are less flexible and therefore more difficult to open, as is the case with some white hair. As a result, color penetration into the hair cortex is more difficult, hence uneven or fleeting coloration.
To perform mordanting:
Apply 20 volume liquid peroxide (professional or ordinary pharmacy peroxide) to your dry hair, focusing on the difficult-to-color sections. Avoid the scalp if you have sensitive skin.
Apply to the roots on white hair and to the lengths and ends on virgin hair.
Using a hand dryer, dry your hair without using a brush or comb. Use only your hands and dry at maximum heat.
If you feel any irritation, STOP the process immediately and rinse with cold water, which will open your hair cuticles and significantly facilitate color penetration.
Once your hair is dry, apply your coloration as you normally would, following the manufacturer's instructions.
Pro tip: Start applying your color to the most difficult-to-color sections (white hair, in this case). They will thus benefit from a slightly longer processing time, resulting in better penetration.
Another trick to cover white hair well is to add 40% natural colorant to your usual colorant. So, if your usual colorant is 7.43, mix it with 40% of 7 natural (7N).
Note that mordanting can slightly modify the tonality of certain colorations by giving the hair slightly more vibrant reflections, but this phenomenon is rather rare.
The Bleaching Process
Hair Color Remover (for Changing Color)
A hair color remover eliminates the current coloration in preparation for a color change that may include lightening by a few degrees. For example, to go from level 5 to level 6, a hair color remover is sufficient. (Remember the first principle of coloration!)
The remover only removes the existing coloration or eliminates the reflection of your hair, without affecting the pigmentation. After application, follow the manufacturer's instructions and wait for the remover to bring your hair back to its pigmentary color.
Then rinse according to the instructions, and you'll be assured of having color-free hair ready to be lightened if you wish. Don't forget to always dry your hair before coloration; this is very important.
DIY Hair Color Remover Recipe
For a slight color change, you can apply a mixture of professional bleaching powder (bleach) and 10 volume peroxide to your wet hair. For a simple change of reflection, a mixture of bleaching powder and water applied to wet hair will suffice.
In both cases, prepare a non-consistent, even slightly liquid mixture. Always keep an eye on the color change to reach the pigment hidden under it. In the case of an undesirable reflection, watch carefully until it disappears.
During application, you can knead the sections that don't react as quickly as the others with your fingers. This will produce a heating effect that will activate the process. Always wear rubber gloves and never massage the scalp.
Bleach
Once again, I reiterate the importance of making an honest analysis of your hair. You must take into account its porosity and the treatments it has already undergone, in other words, your hair history.
With a bleach, you can go beyond the first level of pigmentation of your hair and reach the others to obtain a lighter color. Whether your hair is colored or natural, the bleach will reach the desired pigmentary color.
To determine the degree that will allow your new color to adhere well to your hair, refer to your hair's base color. For example, if you want a level 8, light blonde, you'll need to wait until your bleach turns your hair yellow.
To go more than six degrees different from your current color, you may need another bleaching session. Indeed, when the bleach's processing time is over, it no longer has an effect, especially if it has dried on your head. Therefore, if you haven't reached the desired level, another bleach may be necessary. It's up to you to decide if you want to continue.
Remember that the more chemical treatments hair undergoes, the drier, more brittle, and duller it becomes.
DIY Hair Bleach
To obtain a bleach from a professional product, ask the retailer if its chemical reaction is done with ordinary hair peroxide or a different product suggested by the manufacturer.
If its chemical reaction occurs with regular hair peroxide, here's the type of mixture you can prepare:
A mixture with 20 volume peroxide will lighten your hair by about 4 degrees
A mixture with 30 volume peroxide will lighten it by 6 degrees
CAUTION: Mixing 30 volume peroxide with a professional bleach is very risky. This combination leads to a rapid and very powerful reaction. If you want to take this risk, keep a close eye on the color change during the process. Also, you'll need to rinse immediately when the desired color is reached. If the reaction seems abnormal, you should rinse immediately.
It is strongly advised against using 40 volume for bleaching. It's wiser to attempt a first bleaching with 20 volume, even if it means repeating if necessary.
Precautions and Aftercare
Before embarking on the great bleaching adventure, it's good to know that at the slightest doubt about the quality of your hair, you should consult a professional hairdresser.
It's prudent to perform a sensitivity test before proceeding, as several aspects can come into play, including:
The effect of certain medications
The effect of certain antibiotics
Pregnancy
These factors can make the scalp very sensitive, hence the importance of avoiding treatments during these periods.
If you have received chemical treatments such as a perm, henna coloration, or metallic salts, the results can be unpredictable and even catastrophic in some cases. Refrain from bleaching or stripping your hair in the aforementioned cases.
Avoid brushing your hair on the day of bleaching. If brushing is necessary, avoid touching the scalp to avoid increasing its possible irritation following the application of the bleach.
Always work on hair that hasn't been washed for more than 48 hours, so that the natural oils of your scalp protect it against chemical treatments. Never wash your hair on the day of bleaching.
Conclusion
Bleaching your hair can be a transformative experience, but it's crucial to approach it with caution and knowledge. By understanding the process, preparing your hair properly, and taking necessary precautions, you can achieve the lighter hair color you desire while minimizing damage. Remember, healthy hair should always be your priority. If you're unsure about any step in the process, don't hesitate to consult a professional. With the right care and attention, you can enjoy beautiful, lighter hair that enhances your overall look.
