Before you consider bleaching your hair, it's important to know that bleaching your hair is one of the most stressful processes it can endure.
You must therefore pay close attention to the bleaching time. Before you begin, analyze the situation. For a simple change of tone or to lighten your color by one or two tones, opt for a hair color remover (commonly called a "stripper").
This product will simply remove the old color from your hair without changing its pigmentation. This treatment will be much less harsh on your hair.
2- The natural or artificial pigmentation of your hair
You need to distinguish between your hair's natural pigmentation and its actual color. All hair contains a base pigment, hidden just beneath the main color.
Why do we need to know the natural or artificial pigment of our hair?
I say "artificial pigment" because the moment the cortex of our hair is colored or bleached, the natural pigment changes depending on the degree of coloring applied.
Knowing the degrees of pigmentation will therefore help you avoid excessive fading when bleaching or removing hair makeup.
So, you won't need to bleach your hair to pale or very pale yellow if you simply want a level 7 color.
Remember that bleaching is the most stress your hair can endure. So, avoid over-bleaching.
3- Mordanting (for virgin or difficult to color hair)
Is your hair going gray and you're having trouble coloring your temples?
First, try a color with a longer processing time. Avoid quick-release colors; they are very effective, but some types of gray hair are particularly difficult to cover, especially at the temples.
If the problem persists after changing the color, another solution is available to you: etching.
Virgin hair (hair that has never been colored) or white hair is subjected to mordanting. On virgin hair, the cuticles (scales) are less flexible and therefore more difficult to open, as is the case with some white hairs. This makes it more difficult for the color to penetrate into the cortex of the hair, resulting in uneven or fleeting coloring.
How to perform etching?
Apply 20-volume liquid peroxide (professional or regular drugstore peroxide) to dry hair and areas that are difficult to color. Avoid the scalp if you have sensitive skin.
Apply to the roots of white hair and to the ends of virgin hair. Then, using a hand dryer, dry your hair without using a brush or comb.
Use only your hands and blow-dry on high heat. If irritation occurs, STOP the process and rinse with cool water, which will open your hair cuticles and make it much easier for the color to penetrate.
Once your hair is dry, apply your hair color as you normally would, following the manufacturer's instructions. Another little tip: start applying your color with the sections that are the hardest to color (gray hair in this case).
This will give them a slightly longer application time, resulting in better penetration. Another trick for good white coverage is to add 40% natural dye to your usual dye. So, if your usual dye is 7.43, mix it with 40% natural 7 (7N).
To remember
It is important to know that mordanting can slightly modify the tone of certain colors by giving the hair more vibrant highlights, but this phenomenon is rather rare.
4- Pre-coloring (filler)
You can pre-color your hair if it tends to fade (lose its color quickly after the first few shampoos).
This phenomenon may be due to the fact that your hair was lighter before. The problem will resolve after a second or third coloring.
The tendency to fade also occurs in very damaged hair, where the scales no longer close to trap the color.
If this is the case for your hair, know that regular hair treatments can remedy this, or simply new hair growth.
How to make your pre-coloring:
- Use an equal amount of coloring and water;
- Make sure you can cover all the hair;
- Apply to dry hair;
- Comb the hair;
- Apply your color immediately, without leaving any processing time.
To remember
A pre-color should always have a warm undertone, regardless of the color applied afterwards.
5- Hair makeup remover (to change color)
Hair color remover removes the current color for a color change that may include lightening by a few degrees.
For example, to go from level 5 to level 6, a hair color remover is enough. (Remember the basic principle of hair color!) The hair color remover only removes the existing color or highlights from your hair, without affecting the pigmentation.
After application, follow the manufacturer's instructions and wait for the action of the makeup remover to return your hair to its pigment color.
Then rinse according to the instructions, and you'll be sure to have hair that's color-free and ready to be bleached if you wish.
Remember to always dry your hair before coloring, this is very important.
6- The recipe to make your own hair makeup remover at home
For a slight color change, you can apply a mixture of professional bleaching powder and 10-volume peroxide to wet hair.
For a simple change of tone, simply mix bleaching powder and water onto wet hair.
Recipe:
In both cases, prepare a mixture that is not thick, and even slightly runny. Always keep an eye on the color change to reach the pigment hidden beneath.
If unwanted reflections occur, monitor them carefully until they disappear. During application, you can knead with your fingers the sections that don't react as quickly as the others.
This will produce a heat effect that will activate the process. Always wear rubber gloves and never massage the scalp.
7- The bleach
Once again, I reiterate the importance of doing an honest analysis of your hair. You must take into consideration its porosity and the treatments it has already undergone, in other words, your hair history.
With a bleach, you can go beyond the first level of pigmentation in your hair and reach the others to achieve a lighter color.
Whether you have colored or natural hair, the bleach will achieve the desired pigment color. Simply refer to your (base hair color) to determine the degree that will allow your new color to adhere well to your hair.
So if you want a level 8, light blonde, you will have to wait until your bleach turns your hair yellow.
To go more than six degrees different from your current color, you may need another bleaching session.
Indeed, once the bleaching time is up, it no longer has any effect. Especially if it has dried on your head. Therefore, if you haven't reached the desired level, another bleach may be necessary. It's up to you to decide whether you want to continue.
Remember that the more chemical treatments your hair undergoes, the drier, more brittle and dull it becomes.
If you wish to continue with another bleach, compare it with the first by carrying out a porosity test (see The porosity test following the first bleaching).
If it is not possible to apply another bleach, choose another color, a little less pale.
It's much more important to have healthy hair! Plus, you can gradually lighten your hair over the next few months, letting your hair rest after each treatment.
8- Homemade hair bleach
To get a bleach from a professional product, ask the retailer if its chemical reaction is done using regular hair peroxide or a different product suggested by the manufacturer.
If its chemical reaction is carried out using regular hair peroxide, here is the type of mixture you can prepare:
- A mixture with 20 volume peroxide will lighten your hair by about 4 degrees;
- A mixture with 30 volume peroxide will lighten it by 6 degrees.
CAUTION: Mixing 30-volume peroxide with a professional bleach is very risky. This combination results in a rapid and very powerful reaction. If you want to take this risk, keep an eye on the color change during the process.
Additionally, you will need to rinse immediately once the desired color is achieved. If the reaction appears abnormal, you will need to rinse immediately.
It is strongly recommended not to use 40 volume bleaching. It is wiser to try bleaching for the first time with 20 volume bleaching, and repeat if necessary.
10- Some prevention tips
Before embarking on the great adventure of bleaching, it is good to know that if you have the slightest doubt about the quality of your hair, you should consult a hairdressing professional.
It is prudent to have a sensitivity test before proceeding, as several aspects may come into play, including:
- The effect of certain medications,
- The effect of certain antibiotics,
- Pregnancy.
These factors can make the scalp very sensitive, hence the importance of avoiding treatments during these periods.
If you've had chemical treatments such as a perm, henna, or metallic salts, the results can be unpredictable and even disastrous in some cases. Refrain from bleaching or removing makeup from your hair in these cases.
Avoid brushing your hair on the day you bleach your hair. If you must brush, avoid touching your scalp to avoid increasing possible irritation following the bleach application.
Always work on hair that has been unwashed for more than 48 hours to allow your scalp's natural oils to protect it from chemical treatments. Never wash your hair the same day you bleach it.
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