Before you consider bleaching your hair, it's crucial to understand that this process puts your hair through some of the most stress it can endure. This comprehensive guide will explain everything you need to know about hair bleaching, from preparation to aftercare.
Understanding Hair Bleaching
When considering a color change, it's essential to first analyze your situation. For a simple change in tone or to lighten your color by one or two shades, opt for a hair bleach (commonly called a "stripper"). This product will simply remove the old color from your hair without changing its pigmentation, resulting in a much less harsh treatment for your hair.
Natural vs. Artificial Pigmentation
You need to distinguish between your hair's natural pigmentation and its actual color. All hair contains a base pigment, hidden just beneath the main color. Understanding this is crucial because when the cortex of our hair is colored or bleached, the natural pigment changes depending on the degree of coloring applied.
Knowing the pigmentation levels will help you avoid excessive lightening when bleaching or stripping your hair. For example, you won't need to lighten your hair to a pale or very pale yellow if you only want a level 7 color.
Remember, bleaching is the most stress your hair can endure, so avoid over-bleaching at all costs.
Prepare the Whitening
Mordanting (for Virgin or Hard-to-Color Hair)
Is your hair turning gray and you're having trouble coloring your temples? Try a color with a longer processing time first. Avoid quick-release colors; they're very effective, but some types of gray hair are particularly difficult to cover, especially at the temples.
If the problem persists after changing your hair color, another solution is available: mordanting. This process is used on virgin (never colored) or white hair. In virgin hair, the cuticles (scales) are less flexible and therefore more difficult to open, as is the case with some white hair. As a result, the color has a harder time penetrating the hair cortex, resulting in uneven or fleeting coloring.
To perform the etching:
- Apply 20-volume liquid peroxide (professional or regular drugstore peroxide) to dry hair, concentrating on hard-to-color sections. Avoid the scalp if you have sensitive skin.
- Apply to the roots on white hair and to the lengths and ends on virgin hair.
- Using a hair dryer, dry your hair without using a brush or comb. Use only your hands and dry on high heat.
- If you experience any irritation, STOP the process immediately and rinse with cold water, which will open your hair cuticles and make it much easier for the color to penetrate.
- Once your hair is dry, apply your color as you normally would, following the manufacturer's instructions.
Pro tip: Start applying your color to the sections that are most difficult to color (gray hair, in this case). This will give them a slightly longer processing time, resulting in better penetration.
Another tip for covering gray hair is to add 40% natural dye to your usual dye. So, if your usual dye is 7.43, mix it with 40% natural 7 (7N).
Note that mordanting can slightly alter the tone of certain colors by giving the hair slightly more vivid highlights, but this phenomenon is rather rare.
The Money Laundering Process
Hair bleach (to change color)
A hair bleach removes the current color in preparation for a color change that may include lightening your hair a few levels. For example, to go from level 5 to level 6, a hair bleach is sufficient. (Remember the first principle of hair coloring!)
Bleach only removes existing color or highlights from your hair, without affecting pigmentation. After application, follow the manufacturer's instructions and wait for the bleach to return your hair to its pigmented color.
Then, rinse according to the instructions, and you'll be guaranteed color-free hair ready to be lightened if you wish. Remember to always dry your hair before coloring; this is very important.
Homemade Hair Bleach Recipe
For a slight color change, you can apply a mixture of professional bleaching powder (bleach) and 10-volume peroxide to wet hair. For a simple change of tone, a mixture of bleaching powder and water applied to wet hair will suffice.
In both cases, prepare a mixture that is not thick, or even slightly runny. Always keep an eye on the color change to reach the pigment hidden underneath. In the case of an unwanted reflection, monitor carefully until it disappears.
During application, you can knead with your fingers the sections that don't react as quickly as the others. This will create a heating effect that will activate the process. Always wear rubber gloves and never massage the scalp.
Bleach
Once again, I reiterate the importance of doing an honest analysis of your hair. You must take into account its porosity and the treatments it has already undergone—in other words, your hair's history.
With a bleach, you can go beyond the first level of pigmentation in your hair and reach the others to achieve a lighter color. Whether your hair is colored or natural, the bleach will achieve the desired pigment color.
To determine the level that will allow your new color to adhere well to your hair, refer to your base hair color. For example, if you want a level 8, light blonde, you will have to wait until your bleach turns your hair yellow.
To go beyond six degrees of difference from your current color, you may need another bleaching session. This is because once the bleach's processing time is over, it no longer has any effect, especially if it has dried on your head. Therefore, if you haven't reached the desired level, another bleaching session may be necessary. It's up to you whether you want to continue.
Remember that the more chemical treatments your hair undergoes, the drier, more brittle and dull it becomes.
Homemade bleach
To get a bleach from a professional product, ask the salesperson if its chemical reaction is with regular hair peroxide or a different product suggested by the manufacturer.
If its chemical reaction occurs with ordinary hair peroxide, here is the type of mixture you can prepare:
- A mixture with 20 volume peroxide will lighten your hair about 4 degrees
- A mixture with 30 volume peroxide will lighten them by 6 degrees
CAUTION: Mixing 30-volume peroxide with a professional bleach is very risky. This combination results in a rapid and very powerful reaction. If you want to take this risk, closely monitor the color change during the process. Also, you must rinse immediately when the desired color is reached. If the reaction seems abnormal, you must rinse immediately.
It is strongly recommended not to use 40 volume bleaching. It is wiser to try bleaching for the first time with 20 volume bleaching, and repeat if necessary.
Precautions and Aftercare
Before embarking on the great adventure of bleaching, it is good to know that if you have the slightest doubt about the quality of your hair, you should consult a professional hairdresser.
It is prudent to perform a sensitivity test before proceeding, as several aspects may come into play, including:
- The effect of certain medications
- The effect of certain antibiotics
- Pregnancy
These factors can make the scalp very sensitive, hence the importance of avoiding treatments during these times.
If you've had chemical treatments such as perms, henna, or metallic salts, the results can be unpredictable and even disastrous in some cases. Refrain from bleaching or stripping your hair in the above-mentioned cases.
Avoid brushing your hair on the day of bleaching. If brushing is necessary, avoid touching the scalp to avoid increasing possible irritation following the bleach application.
Always work on hair that hasn't been washed for more than 48 hours, so your scalp's natural oils can protect it from chemical treatments. Never wash your hair on the day you bleach.
Conclusion
Bleaching your hair can be a transformative experience, but it's crucial to approach it with caution and knowledge. By understanding the process, properly preparing your hair, and taking the necessary precautions, you can achieve the lighter hair color you desire while minimizing damage. Remember, healthy hair should always be your priority. If you're unsure about any step of the process, don't hesitate to consult a professional. With the proper care and attention, you can enjoy beautiful, lighter hair that enhances your overall appearance.
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